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Whatever make of fly line you use here are a few hints and tips

Line Care
Given a little basic care your fly line should last for many seasons. This quite obviously depends on how heavily it is used, but the life of any fly line can be prolonged by observing a few points.

Fly lines get damaged in various ways, but the most frequent damage is caused by mechanical wear: ripping the line through the rod rings (especially worn rod rings), getting trampled on with studded wading boots, dragging the line over sharp rocks or through sand and mud, getting it tangled up in bank-side vegetation and ripping it free etc. Then there is UV radiation, excessive heat or cold and certain chemicals such as the solvents and propellants used in insect repellent creams and sprays.

Storing wet lines on the reel for long periods may cause a build up of mildew or other fungus which can quickly destroy your line.

With WF profile lines avoid false casting on the fine running line as this will stress it and cause the coating to crack.

Sounds dreadful eh? It’s not that bad actually!

Avoiding the above is obvious enough, but it’s also worth periodically removing any build up of dirt and algae that will inevitably accumulate on the coating of your line. This is especially important if you have been salt water fly fishing.

Cleaning is best done by passing the line through a soft cloth dampened in warm water. Avoid using detergents as they may damage your line. If you must use a cleaning agent a natural soft soap is less likely to cause damage. The line should be dried then treated with a good quality lubricant such Snowbee Line Slick. It is remarkable the difference this will make to the feel and shooting properties of your fly line

Some fly casting instructor friends swear by using impregnated car dashboard wipes for cleaning their fly lines claiming that a line cleaned with them will cast more smoothly and shoot yards farther. Recently I started using Armour All wipes to clean my own Wildfisher Fly Lines and they have proven very effective. A word of caution however, this is not something I can recommend as I have not tried all brands of these wipes under all conditions. If you use these it is at your own risk and you should always try them out on a tiny part of the line first to ensure there is no adverse reaction.

Never use lubricants or impregnated wipes on sinking or intermediate lines as this may cause them to float!

Curing Sinking Tips On Floating Lines
A very common complaint with floating fly lines is the tendency for the tips to sink on some of them. This varies from line to line (even within the same make and model of line) and is usually worse on fine tipped, light weight lines in fast water. It is sometimes thought this is caused by water ingress at the tip of line. While this may have an effect, the real cause appears to be the thickness (or if you prefer thinness) of the buoyant line coating in relation to the line core thickness. There is a compromise here between a thicker, more buoyant coating and a thinner line tip capable of gently presenting a fly. Another factor, sometimes overlooked, is the tapered leader, especially those with a thick butt, sinking and dragging the tip of the line under. This happens even with so-called ‘floating leaders’.The problem of sinking tips can be alleviated to some degree by always greasing at least ½ the leader from the butt forwards using a proprietary solid floatant such as Mucilin. While doing this it will do no harm at all also applying some floatant to a foot or so of the line tip. All experienced river fly fishers I know do this. Preparation is everything.

Intermediate Fly Lines
The number one thing to remember with intermediate lines (and all sinking lines for that matter) is NEVER treat them with line lubricants, line slick type products, impregnated wipes etc.  If you do they will float!. Sometimes brand new intermediate lines, just put onto the reel, seem reluctant to sink, especially on a flat calm still water surface. This is usually due to a  minute greasy contamination, even your hands can cause this.  This problem will rectify itself quite quickly when the line has been used for a short while. If this happens to you, you can help the line along by rubbing on some line sink compound such as one of the  Fullers earth and detergent based commercial products, or  by simply lightly rubbing the  first 15 feet or so of line with bank side mud!  Be gentle and take care not to damage the line coating.

How To Load A Fly Line Onto Your Reel
If this is done incorrectly you will be left with coils or twists in your line. Wildfisher Fly Lines do not coil or have memory if you are left with coils or twists in a new Wildfisher Fly Line it will always be due to incorrect loading of line.

NEVER load a fly line by allowing the line to fall off the side of the supplied coil of line in the manner of a fixed spool reel.

wind the line off the supplied coil onto your reel by allowing the coil to turn as if you were transferring the line from one fly reel to another. If you do this correctly your line will have no coils or memory.
Please see the video below

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